Designing for you - Fit Models
Don’t you find it weird that you’re a different size in other brands? That’s all because there’s no industry standard that everyone follows. We all use different fit models which results in the differences you experience. And on top of that, the majority of the fit models have unrealistic proportions. What’s a fit model, you ask? Fit models are what designers use to check the fit, drape, visual appearance of a design on an actual person.
I didn’t know all of this until I went to design school. I saw first hand why fit is so important in my last year at FIT (ironically the name of the design school I attended). I was assigned a fit model who was thin, lanky, 5’8” and did not resemble my body shape. We basically had the same measurements (bust, hips, waist) but the size inches in height that separated us was super obvious. And it altered the proportions of the designs greatly. It was evident through late night sessions fixing my patterns for my projects, trying on the same samples for my 5’8” model on my 5’2” frame that proportions matter. Everything looked horrible because it wasn’t made for my body type.
These disproportionate measurements were the reason why things didn’t fit me. Hips were too low and wide, legs would usually be too snug, the knee break would usually hit me mid calf, whiskering or pulling at the crotch, back pockets too big and too low and of course, the obvious long inseam. The tears and frustration trying on pants, shopping for something that fit wasn’t my fault. All these issues weren't because of me or you or our bodies. The measurements and fit models used were never going to be able to create styles that better suited our body types.
Through these late night sessions of trying to make it work, I realized that my mission was to create clothing for women who didn’t fall into the typical fit model measurements. And so the journey began to understand why clothes never really fit me and what I could do about it.
So I started by finding fit models that were closer to my proportions. In the beginning, it was friends or interns - most who were 5’4” and shorter. I’d have them try my designs for jeans, pants, and tops on their bodies and have “fit parties” to get their feedback and input.
In addition to that, the main fit model was and continues to be me. So as I’ve aged from my 20’s to my 40’s, another realization happened. Other parts of my body started to shift and change, primarily my mid section. And through this phase of my body’s evolution, a new change is taking place in my designs. We’re working to include more body types, more shapes, more heights into the mix of our fit models. To listen and consider what our customers tell us about their own fit issues - sleeves that are too tight, armholes that are unflattering, back areas that need more room… the list goes on.
So now I rely on my team who have different body shapes and my mom who plays a big part in our design and fit process. It’s important for me to see each style on different bodies and prioritize models that are us (friends, customers, family) in our photoshoots. I want to show you how our designs will really look on you.
Our priority is to make women feel relevant - to remind you that you’re not alone, you’re not to blame for the mistakes of the fashion industry, and there’s someone (us!) thinking about how to make clothing better fit you. The average American woman is 5’3” and 170 lbs. And when including other ethnicities it shifts to an average of 5’1” for Asians and 5’2” for Latinas. And these differences should be celebrated. We shouldn’t feel less than because somewhere in the past, someone decided to use a fit model with “perfect” sizing.
Like everything else in our current society - we need to question why things are done a certain way and use our voice to create change when needed. Because if we allow the status quo to continue, we’re supporting the separation and insecurity that happens quietly in dressing rooms around the world. So I’m here to remind you that it’s not your fault, you’re not alone, and your body is perfect just the way it is!
-Allison
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